Lake Tahoe Readies for 16th Annual WinterFest Gay/Lesbian Ski Week

Kevin Ray, an organizer for WinterFest, Lake Tahoe's Gay/Lesbian Ski Week (March 6-12, 2011, (www.travelnevada.com/events-shows-info/lake-tahoe-winterfest-gay-and-lesbian-ski-week.aspx) calls the event the "friendliest" of all gay ski weeks in the States. The Lake Tahoe area (northern California/Nevada) is "a welcoming and open-minded place," he says.

Now in its 16th year, WinterFest features numerous snow sports events, a martini night, a Hawaiian BBQ, an evening steamboat cruise/dance party on the lake, entertainment from DJ Joe Bermudez, and comedy from Jason Stuart.

"WinterFest is not a circuit party, just for the predominantly young white boy set," Ray says. "We're attracting gay men and women and their families of all ages from the west, northeast, southeast and from overseas."

Ray and I are seated at a table at one of WinterFest's sponsors, the Hard Rock Caf�, in Stateline, Nevada. Hard Rock, where several of the event's parties are held, is housed upstairs at Harvey's, a multi-storied casino/restaurant/hotel complex that straddles the California border. (The casinos are in Nevada only). Stenciled over the Hard Rock stage is a sign that reads, "Pray For Snow." This winter, those prayers have been answered. By Thanksgiving last year, Lake Tahoe was blanketed in over 8 feet of snow. Despite a warm spell (the weather was balmy when I visited), you can be assured there'll be plenty of snow on the ground when March rolls around.

"Last year, we had visitors from Australia, Hungary and Europe - they flew in just to attend WinterFest," Ray says. "One gentleman in his 80s came up here with his partner. He doesn't ski, but he came along anyway, mingled with everyone, and even got out on the dance floor."

Tahoe is a study in contrasts: bright neon at the smoky casinos lures you to tables like moths to the flames; steep downhill runs on Heavenly Mountain seem to drop off into the misty abyss; the quiet of the backwoods offer pristine views of mountain ranges glimpsed from cross-country ski or snowshoe trails in state parks or national forests. And there are snowmobile rentals available, ice skating and tubing, too.

What follows is (by no means complete) a guide to the Tahoe area, with recommendations for places to stay and eat.

Heavenly Mountain

Skiers and snow sports enthusiasts will find Tahoe a treasure trove, beginning at Heavenly, a 10,000 foot peak that rises above the lake (www.skiheavenly.com).

South Lake Tahoe center has been renovated in the ski village motif, which is to say, outfitters, restaurants, shops. It's also home to a gondola that takes you up to an observation deck for those non-skiers who want to take in the view, or to the top for skiing down any number of trails in both Nevada and California. The views are spectacular, the lake a blue-green mirror reflecting the sky above and snowy mountain peaks surrounding it.

Heavenly bills itself as a mountain of "breezy blue squares and hair-raising black diamonds." If that sounds above your skill level (if you prefer green trails), there is a family-friendly area for beginners named Big Easy, located just beyond the newly opened Tamarack Lodge.

The only problem with Big Easy is that there is basically only one trail, and it's a practice run. As a beginning/intermediate skier, I found the lack of immediate access to additional green trails from Big Easy disappointing. Making inquiries to ski instructors or to others wearing the bright Heavenly coats yields multiple answers. To avoid this confusion, perhaps the owners might put together a guide for neophytes like me. It is possible to connect to slower trails at different areas, but this requires tricky negotiations via adjacent chair lifts. A simple map or guide that spells out how to do this would solve that dilemma, because Heavenly truly lives up to its ethereal name.

Kirkwood and Spooner Lake Cross Country/Snowshoe Centers

Kirkwood Cross Country and Snowshoe Center (www.kirkwood.com), is in Kirkwood, California, just under an hour's drive from the center of South Lake Tahoe along a twisting and scenic Highway 88. The center itself has beginning, intermediate and advanced trails, all clearly marked. Schneider trail system nearby has trails that climb to almost 9,000 feet above sea level offering more exhilarating views of the High Sierras.

Spooner Lake on the Nevada side (www.spoonerlake.com) has a wonderful trail system through the state forest. There are warming huts throughout the property. A winter cabin is available for rent, deep in the wilderness, accessible via snowshoes. The staff at the lodge is knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and be assured of a hearty workout before returning to Tahoe.

Places to Stay: Zephyr Cove, 968 Park, Peppermill

Zephyr Cove Resort (www.zephyrcove.com) is a few miles from South Lake Tahoe on Route 50, tucked into the woods that hugs Lake Tahoe. I stayed in a housekeeping cabin with view of the lake. In the early morning, I heard a screech owl in the distance. As the morning light shone on the lake, the mountains appeared out of the mist, and the silence was only broken by my footsteps along the snowy beach. Zephyr Cove offers snowmobile tours, a wonderful restaurant for breakfast, and you can book passage on the paddlewheel boat Tahoe Queen, returning to the quiet comfort of your own warm and cozy cabin.

Just down the street from the casinos and the Heavenly Mountain gondola is 968 Park Green Hotel (www.968parkhotel.com), where the rooms feature woodsy accents. South Lake Tahoe is a 24-hour town, and if you're out for the night it's comforting to be able to walk to places nearby from this wonderful hotel, or to take a short cab ride back there from the nearby casinos. The hotel has spa facilities, too.

If you are planning to arrive or depart from Reno's international airport, the only place to stay is the Peppermill Resort (www.peppermillreno.com). The rooms are spacious and generous with amenities. The casino offers endless opportunities and allurements. There are several first-rate restaurants within the complex where dining is leisurely and the food scrumptious. I chose Romanza, the Italian restaurant near the casino, and I dined, unhurriedly, for hours. There is an abundance of nightlife and entertainment, too. The Peppermill harnesses the geothermal power found in the northern part of Nevada, one of the more unique aspects of the resort. It uses this power to heat the water in their spa, for example, which occupies a warren of rooms and several floors, and is complete with lounge areas, hot tubs, steam and massage areas, all of which are welcoming, indeed, especially after punishingly exhilarating days of skiing. The Peppermill's corridors are abuzz with activities all day and night, you never have to leave, and the staff is attentive and courteous.

Places to Eat: Riva Grill on the Lake, Ciera Steak and Chop House

Scott Craig, the affable manager of Riva Grill on the Lake (www.rivagrill.com), tells me that during the summer months, it is not unusual to see a black bear walk nearby his restaurant, which hugs the lakeshore and the nearby M.S. Dixie II (the very boat that will be chartered for WinterFest). Riva Grill has a large dining room with an eclectic menu and a lively bar on the other side where locals enjoy congregating. As the evening wears on, the enthusiasm from the bar reaches a feverish pitch, but everyone takes it in stride. The bar sponsors contests and has local entertainment, too.

If you want to combine fine dining with entertainment and a night at the casino, a short walk from the 968 Park Hotel is the Montbleu Resort, Casino and Spa, home of the Ciera Steak and Chop House (www.montbleuresort.com). The maitre d' of Ciera is Tommy, who tells me he arrived in Lake Tahoe in 1969 from Tampa, Florida intending only to stay long enough "to learn to ski," as he puts it, but, like so many others, he fell in love with the place. He ended up raising his family in Tahoe. He has stories to tell (the resort complex was once Caesar's) about the many celebrities he's met who have paraded through voraciously in search of medium rare sirloins. A consummate professional, Tommy takes the time to recount several of these yarns, all while keeping a watchful eye on the tables. You may choose to dine in a booth surrounded by a velvet red curtain, plush seats and privacy, and you'll only be interrupted when the waiters need to serve dinner. True to its name, the steaks and chops at Ciera are scrumptious, and the drinks, poured by Jose, another long time employee who hails from Mexico, are generous.

More to explore in Tahoe

WinterFest promises the best of all worlds: parties, skiing, snowshoeing, casinos, a lake cruise, fine dining, and entertainment. And there is no shortage of discoveries to be made here. With a long history of welcoming visitors from all over the world, there is a friendliness one finds in Tahoe that is warming and infectious.

Tahoe is a place I hope to return to if only just to hear more of Tommy's stories about the notorious days of Tahoe he has witnessed - stories that are still unfolding.